North Carolina Barbecue on a Brooklyn Street Corner

At the corner of Albany Avenue and Pacific Street in Crown Heights, singles from the Jay-Z album “Reasonable Doubt” echoed from 47-year-old Donnell Rogers’s front yard as he tended to two weathered, barrel-shaped black smokers. One was filled with pork ribs and the other had chicken legs. Plumes of pecan wood smoke swirled in the air.

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